Red-backed Shrike

Another bird seen every day and in many habitats.  Common and beautiful.  

This is mostly what I got for my photo attempts - a fleeing red-backed shrike; this one where the little hook on its bill tip is seen.  But I saw the bird enough that I could be persistent.

A little closer.

Head turned away and a little fuzzy.

Looking right at me and also showing the pinkish breast.

But finally in reasonable light with a gleam in its eye

Perhaps a little closer.

In shadow, but still in good light, with its black mask and pinkish flanks showing nicely.

There may have been a couple of other reasonable photos, but I deleted in favor of those I show here. Like the Roller, a really beautiful bird that was seen often.   

European Roller and Bee-eater

European Roller (Coracias garrulus) is so beautiful - in flight and perched.  It is common in grassy farmland with scattered trees.  We saw this bird nearly everyday.  The roller is a cavity nester and below it is occupying one of the monitored nest boxes. 

Even seeing the bird perched on an overhead utility wire is spectacular, but in flight it's really breathtaking.  Then the color pattern on the back of the bird is in view.  The photo below is the best I could do.

On-line images can be found that really reveal the beautiful feather patterning and coloring on the back of the Roller.  One in particular, by a photographer named Margo Coetzee, shows this in a really spectacular way.

The bird above and below was perched on a utility wire not too high up and very near the road.  The only way I could get this photo was to use the car as a blind.  Otherwise, there is no getting near this bird.  It will flush in a blink.

It's food are the large insects, grasshoppers and beetles, that also occupy the grassy habitat.  The bill has a tiny hook on the tip that makes it seem shrikey but it's not a shrike.  One can never see too many Rollers.  Just not possible. 

The bird above is a dreadful photo of my life Garganey (Anas querquedula).  The bird never really did take it's head out of the water, but the white crescent over it's eye is still visible.  From photos, I think of the Garganey as one of the most beautiful ducks.

The habitat was beautiful.

Another kestrel in it's nest box.  This box was placed well away from the road.

I made multiple attempts to get a photo of a perched Stonechat (Saxicola torquatus), but it's another easy flusher.  The Stonechat above was perched near the edge of the road.  I missed the perched shot but got this instead which I liked just as well.

European Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster) were nesting in a banked sand-pit adjacent to the parking lot of a national park entrance.  Again, no chance for perched shots other than the dreadful attempt of the two perched on the snag within the copse near the sand-pit.  

But they flew out from their perches over the grassy area and one came close enough to get these photos.

We didn't see Bee-eaters as often as Rollers, but they were still plentiful and their habit of nesting in colonies meant that when one was seen many were seen.

The habitat adjacent to the sand-pit where the Bee-eaters were nesting. 

Fire-bellied Toad

This was a late afternoon find on the day of our White-backed Woodpecker success and after our wine tasting event.  There has been a lot of rain in Hungary this spring and early summer.  During my visit it rained hard during three nights and, on this day, the downpour which chased us into the wine cellar occurred.  There were muddy pools nearly everywhere.  

These pools must be favored by the fire-bellied toad, also called firebelly toad (Bombina bombina), because we heard and saw them again in similar pools elsewhere.  I learned more about toads just by reading this Wikipedia link.  For example, there is no distinction between toads and frogs by taxonomy.  

I heard an unbirdlike booming sound like a one-toned instrument coming in to pace an orchestra from a few locations.  Gerard went to the nearest pool and caught one of the vocalists.

Turning it over in his hand revealing the orange, speckled smooth belly gives clear indiction of how the little thing got its name.  Like the Fire Salamander found earlier, the skin of this amphibian has a toxic coating to deter would be predators.  I didn't pick up the toad, but I did touch the salamander.  Before knowing of the toxin on the skin, I must have touched my face because I felt a mild tingling and twitching of the skin beneath my eye that lasted approximately fifteen to thirty minutes. It seems unlikely that a mild toxin would deter a large predator like a stork, heron or egret, but maybe.   

We thought the toad below was probably full of eggs.

And to hear the fire-bellied vocalist, click on my 40 second You Tube link below.

Tiny Costa Rica is a World Cup Surprise

I can't help myself.  After birding in Costa Rica for the first time at the end of January and early February and falling in love with the country, as only a foreigner can, I was cheering for Costa Rica in the World Cup - HARD!

I didn't hear this NPR piece on the day it was broadcast, but a colleague at work told me about it today.  As soon as I got home I listened to the NPR segment.

Here it is, from July 3rd, on NPR:  Tiny Costa Rica is a World Cup Surprise 

And, just for the heck of it, here is the Costa Rica National Anthem with subtitles.

I am adding to my blog because this is something I will want to save forever!  Please enjoy and go birding in Costa Rica.

Wine Tasting and the Dog that Bit Me

I wrote in an earlier post that we were enroute to the Bukk Hills, the wine-making region of Hungary.  There is a lot of narrative to this blog entry, but I don't want to forget this day and am happy to share it with readers.  It may even help a future traveler to Hungary.

Approaching the village of Voszvaj, we drove by fields of grapevines. All of the parts of Hungary I had seen thus far were beautiful.  But, we had now left the puszta and this area was differently beautiful with rolling hills and vineyards lining the roads.  Look at that stunning blue sky with tiny specks of clouds peaking over the hills in the distance!

After seeing White-backed Woodpecker and following our dash from Bukki Nemzeti Park in torrential rain and after our coffee in the village, the whole afternoon stretched before us with gray clouds seeming full of rain still hanging overhead.  Gerard asked if I had any interest in visiting one of the local wine cellars.  He couldn't promise, but he knew of one where the vintner might be hanging around.  Would I be interested in visiting a Hungarian wine cellar?  There's an easy answer to this question.  Absolutely!  The photo above, with Viktor the vintner in red shirt, was taken as we were leaving - blue sky peaking through scattering clouds - but when we drove up the sky was still heavy with rain clouds.  Gerard spotted Viktor at the front door and exclaimed, "Ah yes, he's here.  Give me a second and I'll just see if he's open."  Of course he was open.  What else was he doing there.

Viktor invited us into a little cave-like entrance that held a table with some empty bottles atop it.  From this anteroom we went down a few steps to a larger cave-like room.  A bare bulb hanging from the ceiling provided our light.  Barrels lined both sides of the small room.  

Earlier Gerard explained to me that the region had a soft rock that was easy to excavate to make these wine cellars and that many were over 100 years old and older.  Viktor was 84 years old and he had inherited his cellar from his grandfather. 

Which wine would I like to try?  White or red?  Without hesitation, my reply, "red."

Neither of the gentlemen above look too happy.  That's Gerard on the left and Vikor on the right.  Viktor unscrewed the cap to one of the kegs on the left side of his cellar and then used the glass contraption that Gerard is holding and placed the long end into the keg and put his mouth at the other end to draw the wine from the keg.  Viktor carefully dripped the wine collected in the bubble of this contraption into a juice glass.  I think you can get a better idea of this thing in the photo below. That's me with Viktor holding both the contraption and my juice glass with red wine. 

Now, here's the thing.  This wine was not just good, but very good. Sure enough, I was on vacation in Hungary and in an old wine cellar being served wine from an old Hungarian vintner.  But the other side to this is that I'm a wine drinker - think that a good evening meal is missing something without wine.   Viktor's red wine was not sweet, nor was it dry - more somewhere in the middle and this made it delightful to drink.  

Since I had liked the red so well, would I like to try the white?  Viktor's white wine was what he was really proud of.  Sure, why not.  He went through the same process drawing the white wine from one of the kegs on the opposite wall.  The white wine was also very good.  This wine would easily be classified as sweet.  At home in the summertime, sauvignon blanc - crisp and citrusy - is my favorite white wine. But Viktor's sweet white wine was so pleasing.  We stood around and sipped the wine looking at things in the ancient cellar.  That black stuff on the wall in the photo above is a fungus called "noble rot."

We moved outdoors and sat on three legged stools so that I could finish my white wine.  Gerard and I, realizing that we were drinking wine in the middle of the day without having yet had lunch, opened little packs of almonds that I had brought from home.  We gave Viktor an almond packet and he opened it politely and tried one, but he didn't seem too interested.  Gerard then wandered off to find a private place and left me, languageless, alone with Viktor.  Then I found out something else about Viktor.  He was kind of a dirty old man.  Nothing terrible of course but I was relieved when I saw Gerard returning. 

Viktor charged us what we both thought a paltry sum for our excellent wine tasting so we tripled this and, after a couple more obligatory kisses, were on our way to fill the rest of the afternoon with birding. 

Sometime later on the trip, as were were passing people in a village going about their daily activities, out of the blue Gerard happened to comment that Hungarians "are not smiling people."  I hadn't paid much attention, but when he mentioned this I could see the truth in it. When I was home again and looking at the photos of our wine-tasting afternoon, I was reminded of Gerard's comment from Viktor's facial expression in the photo above.  It is also observable in the unsmiling Gerard and Viktor in the fourth photo.  Gerard is British, from Liverpool, and is married to a Hungarian and has two young adult sons.  He has lived in Hungary for most years of his adult life.  He would be the first to say that he could never return to live in England.  He is fluent in Hungarian and has probably also taken on this unsmiling approach to daily living.  Then in the fifth photo, look at me - smiling away.  I considered how Americans are always going to take it on the chin when traveling abroad - especially in Europe.  It's evident in my photo.

But was any of this the dog that bit me?  Oh no, no, no, no, no.  

Later that same night, while sitting in the chair just behind the family dog, Gerard and I joined Gabor and Clara, the hotel family's patriarch and matriarch for conversation after dinner.  Gerard has brought many groups to the Nomad Hotel and is well-known to their family.  Their friendship was charming and it was easy to see how fond Gabor and Clara were of him.  I thought they treated him like a son who was home for a visit.  

Out of nowhere came the word palinka.  Mild sounding word. Innocent enough.  With many words in between, Clara exited the table and a few minutes later returned with a gallon jug of clear liquid and three aperitif glasses.  Mind you, not four glasses because, as I quickly realized, she had no intention of staying.  This should have been my first clue.  She handed the jug to Gabor, said a few more words and left.  The jug was half-full with Gabor's home-brewed apple palinka.

"Ah ga shey ga dra" - phonetic Hungarian for to your health was said all around and we sipped Gabor's apple palinka.  Again, ah ga shey ga dra and the three glasses were tipped off.  Gabor was impressed that I could pronounce this bit of Hungarian.  I thought, oh good I'm finally learning some Hungarian.  Then Gabor disappeared inside the house and returned a few minutes later with a bottle of clear liquid with an attractive label and presented this to me.  It was his homemade pear palinka.  I was surprised and a little overwhelmed.  We may have had another tip off or not, I can't remember.  But when I stood to go, I was unsteady.  Oh no.  I clutched my bottle of pear palinka and carefully stepped up the one stair into the hotel.  I wobbled up the stairs to my room.  I managed to enter my room and change for bed.  This is all I remember of those kind of details.

I may have been drunk, my hangover may have started early, but what I remember most is being sick.  Really sick!

The next morning Gerard and I were meeting for our last chance to see perched Grey-headed Woodpecker.  I was too embarrassed not to show up and got out early to sit on the outdoor patio furniture.  I thought fresh air might help.  He didn't say anything, but I thought Gerard was surprised to see me.  We arrived at our woodpecker spot and stayed only a couple of minutes before I told him I was going back. I returned to bed for another blessed hour.  I was a few minutes late meeting Gerard in the breakfast room.  I poured myself a cup of coffee. When Gerard got up for seconds, I asked him to make me some dry toast and I nibbled at this.  Somehow that morning I managed to finish packing, pay my bill, take some photos for memory and say goodbye to everyone.  We got on the road at a reasonable time despite the delay my condition caused.  

We approached a small town with a pharmacy and Gerard mentioned a medication he said his wife swore by and offered to stop for some. I was feeling very peaked and agreed.  He ran into the pharmacy and returned with a box of - wait for it - alka-seltzer.  Just like the old television commercial, I plopped two tablets into a small cup of water and watched them fizz.  Truth be told, I don't recall ever having had alka-seltzer before.  I drank slowly.  By god, it worked!  By late morning I told Gerard that I was feeling better and that I would be okay.  I thanked him for his quick thinking.  Lunch was light, and that evening I ate a normal dinner of catfish and drank coke at the fish restaurant attached to our hotel along the Tiszla river.

You read it here first.  If in Hungary, no matter how many ah ga shey ga dra invitations you receive, beware of the palinka.  There is no American equivalent to this alcoholic beverage.  Later when I spoke with friends and family about this event, I was reminded that the palinka was home-brewed and that its alcohol content could not be measured accurately.  For all I knew, it could have been 100% alcohol.  It seems clear now that my illness was acute alcohol toxicity.  I can advise, with some authority, when you hear the word palinka run for your life.

In the next twenty-four hours I had a couple more alka-seltzer tablets which I found soothing and thought I was fully mended.  Then, on our final night at the Tiszla river hotel and after seeing the female black woodpecker, I ordered another fish meal.  I realized with the first bite that I would not be able to eat.  I tried another bite and knew it was not going to go down.  Not it or anything else either.  The kind waiter was concerned and offered to bring me something else - anything I wished.  With a little head shake, I politely refused.  "No, there is nothing."  "Dessert?"  "No, thank you."  As Gerard finished his dinner, the restaurant manager walked by and commented to Gerard that I was not eating.  Gerard said something about still not being up to snuff after the palinka.  The manager replied that I should then have a little more palinka and Gerard translated for me.  "You know, the hair of the dog ..."   Oh right, we have that saying too.

I packed that night to be ready early for our last birding walk of the trip.  This I surely did not want to miss.  I left Gabor's pear palinka out on the table.  When I went down for breakfast in the morning I carried the bottle of palinka.   The restaurant manager arrived and I went to him and gave the bottle of palinka with its beautiful label to him saying, "the dog that bit me."  Gerard translated this and the manager laughed and happily accepted the palinka.  Of course, he's Hungarian.  He can drink the stuff. 

"To your health" is really this in Hungarian:  Az egészségre.

Fire Salamander

Salamandra salamandra.  I love salamanders, but in truth I've only ever seen salamanders one other time - during an early spring evening field trip to find them.  Then they were mostly tiny things, as I recall three or four different species, coming out of the spring woodland pools for the opportunity to mate.

I've never seen anything like the Fire Salamander.  While looking for the White-backed Woodpecker Gerard found this beautiful little amphibian in the shallow creek running along the roadside.

It was approximately five inches long and a completely cute.  To learn more about it check the blue link above to read about habitat and ecology.  We actually saw it in exactly the kind of place where it might be expected.  

White-backed Woodpecker

After passing a group of school children with their teachers and parents out for a hike in the Bukki Nemzeti Park ...

... we drove on and came nose-to-nose with a huge logging truck hauling large timber out of the national park.  We were entering the park on a narrow one-lane road and this confrontation forced Gerard to reverse for some distance - a difficult thing to do - before finding an adequate pull-in to clear the lane.  The truck driver was not the sharpest knife in the drawer and continued, I thought, with an aggressive advance forward even as Gerard was backing into the pull-in area.  This kind of driving brought an avalanche of words from me - mostly related to what a moron the truck driver was.

For Gerard, who did not like reversing the car under those conditions, the situation brought mostly a volley of words about logging in national parks.  The reason for us coming here was for our target bird which is endangered in many parts of its range, secondary to loss of old forest and intensive forestry methods.

This is the forest habitat we were birding in.  

White-backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos) requires mature, old-growth deciduous or mixed forests with much rotten wood, especially standing dead trees.  

We walked along the road and we saw other things; Wren (Troglodytes troglodytes), and the fasting-moving Collared Flycatchers (Ficedula albicollis) at their nest cavity below.  The flycatcher appears to be calmly perched but these birds did not really stop moving hence the dreadful photo.  

  

When we started out the day was bright, sunny and warm.  Once inside the forest it was dark and cool.  Gerard commented that patience was needed to see this bird.  We made a series of stops calling for the bird.   A Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major) flew in to give me a moment of excitement.  On the other hand, I was in no hurry.  Walking through a deep forest is not something I get to do everyday.  It was peaceful, quiet and beautiful.  

We came to an area where darkness seemed to have descended upon us.  Above the trees the sky was threatening rain.  Then, and as if on cue, a response came to Gerard's vocalization and drumming recordings.  A White-backed Woodpecker flew in.       

I took a couple dozen photos of this bird of which these five are the best.  

This bird was so cooperative and thrilling to see.  It flew from tree to tree and perched in the open for long and satisfying views.   White-backed Woodpecker is not an easy bird to find and, because of the relatively specialized habitat, all who search for it are not successful. 

I think the photo above is probably the best of my few poor good photos.  It shows well the bird's long, powerful bill.   

The bird had not lost interest in us yet, but it began to rain.  Before we could get the short distance back to the car the rain fell in heavy drops through the dense forest canopy.  Of all my birding days in Hungary, I may look back and think of this morning as my favorite.

The rain fell so hard and fast that when we drove past the park's visitor center the workers were trying to sweep the water off the flooded patio so that it did not enter the building.  We went to the nearby village and stopped at the cafe in the photo above for a cup of coffee.  The drainage ditches that lined the streets of the village were flooded with fast moving water.